Some links in this post are Amazon affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Heritage Diner earns from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
Fresh bread makes poor French toast. It goes soggy the moment it meets liquid and collapses into a wet, eggy sheet. Bread that has had a day or two to dry out behaves entirely differently: it drinks the custard slowly and holds its shape on the way to the pan.
Challah, with its enriched, slightly sweet crumb, is the best bread for the job. The question that decides everything is how long to leave the slices in the bowl.
Why day-old, and why challah
As bread stales, the moisture in the crumb migrates and the starch firms up. The result is a loaf that is drier and sturdier, with room to absorb liquid. Fresh slices are already full of water and have nowhere to put the custard.
Challah is made with eggs and a little oil or sugar, which gives it a tender crumb and a rich flavor that stands up to custard. Brioche works the same way. A plain white sandwich loaf can be used, but it needs a shorter soak, since the thin slices fall apart faster.
No stale loaf in the kitchen? Slice the bread, lay it on a rack and let it dry for a few hours, or place the slices in a 300 degree F oven for about ten minutes, turning once, until they feel dry but not toasted.
Cut it thick
Slice the loaf to between three-quarters of an inch and one inch. Thin slices turn to mush, and thick ones give you a creamy center and a browned crust. A long serrated knife cuts a braided loaf cleanly; a serrated bread knife is worth owning for this alone.
Cut the slices straight across, not at a slant, so they stand evenly in the pan.
Choosing between challah, brioche and everything else. Challah and brioche are both enriched breads, made with eggs and fat, and both hold custard well. Challah is a touch less buttery and a bit chewier, while brioche is softer and richer. Either way, you want a loaf with an even, close crumb rather than big irregular holes. Custard pools in large holes and leaves the surrounding bread unevenly wet.
Texas toast and thick-sliced Italian loaves also work, with a shorter soak than challah. French bread cut on a bias is a classic choice. Whole-grain breads with a lot of seeds tend to resist the custard and brown unevenly, so give them a longer rest in the dish.
Whatever you choose, taste the bread plain first. Salty bread makes salty toast, and sweet bread needs less sugar in the custard.
The custard
For about eight thick slices, whisk four large eggs with one cup of milk, a tablespoon of sugar, a teaspoon of vanilla, a pinch of salt and a half teaspoon of cinnamon. Use whole milk or a splash of cream for a richer result. The more milk you add, the softer the center will be.
Whisk thoroughly, until no streaks of egg white remain. Pour the custard into a shallow dish wide enough to lay a slice flat, such as a pie plate or a baking dish. A shallow pie plate works well.
The rest of the pantry. A few small things lift the custard. A grating of fresh nutmeg is old-school and effective. A teaspoon of orange zest or a splash of orange juice gives a bright note that works especially well with challah. A spoonful of maple syrup can stand in for the sugar. Add one or two of these, not all of them.
Salt is the unsung member. A pinch makes the sweet flavors taste clearer, the way it does in cookie dough.
Soak times that work
The clock depends on two things: how thick the slice is and how dry the bread has become. These are starting points; adjust after you test one slice.
- One-inch slices of day-old challah: about 20 to 30 seconds per side.
- Three-quarter-inch slices of day-old challah: about 15 to 20 seconds per side.
- Two- or three-day-old challah that feels firm: 30 to 45 seconds per side.
- Very dry, nearly hard bread: up to a minute per side, or press the slices into the custard for a bit longer.
- Fresh bread, if you must: a quick dip of 5 to 10 seconds per side.
The test is easy. Lift the slice and press the center. It should feel heavy and wet but not dripping, and there should be no dry pocket in the middle. Cut one open if you are unsure. Dry spots mean you need more time; a sodden slice that sags means you went too long.
Pan heat and cooking time. Set a heavy skillet or griddle over medium heat and add a pat of butter. When the foam subsides, lay the slices in without crowding. Cook for about three minutes per side, until the crust is a deep golden brown. If the outside darkens too fast, lower the heat.
A thick slice can brown beautifully and still be undercooked inside. Egg-based dishes should reach 160 degrees F, according to the USDA. An instant-read thermometer slipped into the center of a slice tells you for certain. If the center falls short, finish the slices on a rack in a 350 degree F oven for five to eight minutes.
For a crowd, hold finished slices on a wire rack over a baking sheet in a 200 degree F oven. A rack keeps them crisp. Stacking them on a plate steams the crust.
Making it for a crowd
French toast does not wait politely, so plan the sequence. Whisk the custard in a large dish and keep it cold. Dip slices just before they hit the pan, since bread left sitting in the custard keeps drinking and turns to paste. Cook in batches and move the finished slices to the oven rack right away.
A big electric griddle holds a steady temperature across a dozen slices, which beats shuffling pans on a small stove. A flat electric griddle sets up on the counter and frees the burners for bacon or eggs.
If you want to prepare ahead, arrange sliced bread in a baking dish, pour the custard over it, cover, and refrigerate overnight. The next morning, bake the casserole in a 350 degree F oven until the center is set and the top is golden, which usually takes about forty-five minutes. Check that the center reaches 160 degrees F. It is a different dish from the pan-fried slice, softer and more like bread pudding, but it feeds a crowd without anyone standing at the stove.
Leftovers and freezing
Cooked slices freeze well. Cool them on a rack, lay them on a tray in a single layer until firm, then bag them with parchment between. Reheat in a toaster, a toaster oven or a 375 degree F oven for a few minutes until hot and crisp. Leftover custard that touched raw egg should not be saved or reused for another batch.
Serving. Butter and warm maple syrup need no improvement. Berries and powdered sugar dress it up. A spoonful of sliced fruit cooked in a little sugar until jammy makes a good topping. For a savory version, leave out the sugar and cinnamon and serve with bacon and a fried egg.
Warm the syrup in a small pitcher in the microwave for thirty seconds. Cold syrup on hot toast is a letdown.
Common mistakes.
- Soggy middle: bread too fresh, too thin, or soaked too long. Dry it out or cut it thicker.
- Eggy taste: not enough sugar, vanilla or salt in the custard.
- Burnt outside, raw inside: heat too high. Lower it and finish in the oven.
- Pale toast: pan not hot enough, or too much butter melted in the pan, which cools it.
- Sticking: add butter between batches and wipe out any burnt bits.
Leftover cooked slices freeze well. Layer them with parchment, and reheat in a toaster or a hot oven until crisp.
